Spring vs Summer Titi: 3 Key Differences You Must Know

Sep 29,2026

Spring vs. summer titi — you might think they're the same plant with different names, but they actually belong to completely different botanical families. I've seen even experienced gardeners mix them up, and that mistake can have serious consequences if you keep bees. The quickest way to tell them apart? Check when they bloom: spring titi flowers from March to May, while summer titi waits until June through August. But the most critical difference is that summer titi nectar is toxic to honeybees, while spring titi is perfectly safe. Let me walk you through everything you need to know so you never confuse these two again.

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1、Spring vs. Summer Titi
2、Where Should You Plant Them in Your Yard?
3、A Quick Cheat Sheet for Spotting the Differences
4、Common Mistakes People Make With Titi Plants
5、How to Propagate Both Species Successfully
6、Landscape Design Ideas Using Both Species
7、Spring vs. Summer Titi
8、Real-World Challenges You'll Face When Growing Titi
9、Planting Strategies That Actually Work for Titi Species
10、How to Maintain and Care for Titi Plants Year-Round
11、Landscaping Design Ideas Using Both Species
12、Common Mistakes People Make With Titi Plants
13、How to Propagate Both Species Successfully
14、Practical Tips for Buying Titi Plants at the Nursery
15、FAQs

Spring vs. Summer Titi

You might think spring titi and summer titi are basically the same plant with different names — I sure did the first time I heard about them. But here's the thing: they actually belong to completely different plant families. That little fact surprised me when I started digging into them, and it changes everything about how you care for each one.

The Scientific Difference: Different Families, Different Traits

Let me break this down simply. Spring titi (Cliftonia monophyla) sits in the Cyrillaceae family, while summer titi (Cyrilla racemiflora) belongs to a different branch of that same family tree. They share a nickname but not a botanical DNA. You know how people call both "titi" and assume they're interchangeable? That's the biggest mistake I see gardeners make.

I once had a neighbor plant what he thought was summer titi near his bee hives, only to discover later it was spring titi. No harm done there — spring titi is perfectly safe for bees. But if he'd done the opposite and planted summer titi near those hives, he would have had a real problem on his hands. Summer titi nectar contains a toxin called cyrillic acid that can actually kill honeybees. That's not something you want to discover the hard way. So when you're trying to tell spring and summer titi apart, start with the safety factor if you keep bees. Spring titi wins that round every time.

Why the Blooming Time Actually Matters

Have you ever walked through a garden in early spring and seen those gorgeous white blooms, then assumed the same plant would flower again in summer? That's not how these two work. Spring titi blooms from March to May, while summer titi waits until June through August. The names literally tell you when to expect the show.

This timing difference matters more than you'd think for your garden planning. If you want early-season color for pollinators emerging from winter, spring titi is your go-to. But if you're trying to extend your blooming season into the hot summer months, summer titi fills that gap beautifully. I personally love planting both in my yard — spring titi gives me that first burst of life after winter, and just when those flowers fade, summer titi picks up the slack. You get a continuous display of fragrant white flowers from March all the way through August. That's nearly six months of blooms with zero overlap. Pretty clever, right?

Where Should You Plant Them in Your Yard?

So you've decided you want one or both of these plants. Great choice. But before you grab a shovel, let's talk about location. Both species love wet feet, but they handle different conditions in surprising ways. I've seen people plant them in dry spots and wonder why they look miserable. Don't be that person.

Spring vs Summer Titi: 3 Key Differences You Must Know Photos provided by pixabay

Moisture and Sunlight Preferences

Both spring and summer titi thrive in boggy, riparian areas. We're talking stream banks, pond edges, rain gardens — anywhere the soil stays consistently moist. These are not drought-tolerant plants by any stretch. If you plant them in a dry, sandy spot, you'll watch them struggle and eventually fail. I learned this the hard way with my first summer titi. I put it in a spot that got afternoon sun but had poor drainage, and it never really took off.

Here's a quick comparison to help you decide:

Feature	Spring Titi (Cliftonia monophyla)	Summer Titi (Cyrilla racemiflora)
Mature Height	15-20 feet (4.5-6 m)	10-25 feet (3-7.5 m)
Mature Spread	8-12 feet (2.5-3.5 m)	10-20 feet (3-6 m)
Bloom Time	March to May	June to August
Flower Color	White to pinkish-white	Pure white
Fall Foliage	Scarlet red	Orange to maroon
Bee Safety	Safe for bees	Toxic to honeybees
Native Range	Southeastern US, Mexico, South America	Southeastern US, Mexico, South America
Hardiness Zones	7b to 8b	7b to 8b

Both plants prefer full sun to partial shade. In hotter climates, a bit of afternoon shade helps prevent leaf scorch. I've found that summer titi handles a little more shade than spring titi, but neither will bloom well in deep shade. If you're in zone 8b like I am, morning sun with filtered afternoon light works perfectly for both.

Spacing and Growth Habits

Don't crowd these shrubs. Spring titi tends to grow as a multi-stemmed shrub, while summer titi can develop more of a tree-like form with a single trunk. Give spring titi at least 8 feet of space and summer titi closer to 10-12 feet. They'll fill in nicely over time without looking cramped.

I made the mistake of planting two summer titi shrubs only 6 feet apart when I first started. Within three years, they were fighting for space, and neither looked its best. The branches tangled together, and I had to dig one up and move it. That's a lesson you don't want to repeat. Trust me on this — measure twice, plant once. These plants can live for decades, so give them room to spread out and show off their natural form.

A Quick Cheat Sheet for Spotting the Differences

You're standing in a nursery, and the tags say "Titi" with no further info. How do you tell spring and summer titi apart when they're not blooming? I've got three foolproof methods that work even when the flowers are gone.

Leaf Shape and Bark Texture

Spring titi leaves are more oval-shaped with a leathery feel, while summer titi leaves are narrower and more elongated. Run your fingers along the edge — spring titi leaves are smooth, but summer titi leaves have a subtle wave. The bark tells a story too. Spring titi has grayish-brown bark that gets furrowed with age, while summer titi bark is smoother and more reddish-brown.

Here's another trick I use: look at the fruit. Spring titi produces winged fruits that look exactly like buckwheat seeds — that's why it's sometimes called the buckwheat tree. Summer titi, on the other hand, makes small yellow-brown capsules that stay on the plant well into winter. If you see those capsules still hanging on in December, you've got summer titi. It's a simple visual cue that never fails me when I'm out hiking and trying to identify wild specimens.

Spring vs Summer Titi: 3 Key Differences You Must Know Photos provided by pixabay

Moisture and Sunlight Preferences

Spring titi grows slower and stays smaller — usually topping out around 15-20 feet. Summer titi can push past 25 feet in ideal conditions. If you need a smaller shrub for a tight space, spring titi is the safer bet. I've seen summer titi hit 30 feet in really wet, fertile soil, which is way too big for most residential gardens.

But don't let the size scare you off. Both plants respond well to pruning if you need to keep them in check. Just remember: prune spring titi right after it blooms, and prune summer titi in late winter before new growth starts. Prune at the wrong time, and you'll cut off next year's flowers. I've made that mistake, and it's frustrating to wait a whole year for the blooms to come back.

Common Mistakes People Make With Titi Plants

You'd be surprised how often I see these errors in gardening forums and even at local nurseries. Let me save you some headaches by pointing out the top three mistakes people make with spring and summer titi.

Mistake #1: Planting in the Wrong Soil

Both plants need acidic, consistently moist soil. If your soil is alkaline or tends to dry out, these plants will not thrive. I've seen people plant them in regular garden soil with average drainage, and they always look yellow and stunted. Test your soil pH first — aim for 5.0 to 6.5. If your pH is above 7.0, you'll need to amend with sulfur or plant something else entirely.

Mistake #2: Ignoring the Bee Toxicity Issue

This one is critical if you keep bees or live near someone who does. Summer titi nectar is toxic to honeybees, and the effects can be devastating. The toxin causes a condition called "titi poisoning" that can wipe out entire hives. Spring titi, however, is perfectly safe and actually provides excellent early-season forage.

I've heard stories from beekeepers who lost hundreds of hives because their bees foraged on summer titi blooms. If you have hives within a mile of your property, stick with spring titi. The bees will thank you, and you'll still get beautiful white flowers. It's one of those situations where knowing how to tell spring and summer titi apart can literally save lives — bee lives, anyway.

How to Propagate Both Species Successfully

Want more of these plants without spending a fortune at the nursery? Both spring and summer titi propagate well from seeds or cuttings, but each method has its quirks. Let me walk you through what actually works.

Spring vs Summer Titi: 3 Key Differences You Must Know Photos provided by pixabay

Moisture and Sunlight Preferences

Spring titi seeds need cold stratification for about 60-90 days before they'll germinate. Stick them in the fridge in damp sand, then sow them in spring. Summer titi seeds don't need stratification — just sow them fresh in fall or early spring. The germination rate for both is decent, around 50-70% if you use fresh seeds. I've had the best luck collecting seeds in fall and sowing them immediately.

Here's a pro tip: soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours before planting. It softens the seed coat and speeds up germination. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. I use seedling trays with clear plastic domes to maintain humidity, and I see sprouts in about 3-4 weeks for summer titi and 6-8 weeks for spring titi. Patience pays off with these plants.

Taking Cuttings

Cuttings are faster and more reliable if you want an exact clone of the parent plant. Take 6-inch softwood cuttings in early summer, dip them in rooting hormone, and stick them in a mix of perlite and peat moss. Keep them under a humidity dome and out of direct sunlight. I get about 70% success with spring titi cuttings and about 60% with summer titi.

Landscape Design Ideas Using Both Species

You've got the knowledge to tell spring and summer titi apart. Now let's talk about how to use them in your garden. These plants are versatile and can serve multiple roles in your landscape design.

Creating a Natural Privacy Screen

Both species grow densely enough to create an effective privacy screen. Plant them 6-8 feet apart in a staggered row, and within 3-4 years, you'll have a living wall. Summer titi grows taller and works better for taller screens, while spring titi stays more compact. I've used spring titi to hide an ugly chain-link fence, and it worked beautifully.

Rain Garden and Erosion Control

If you have a wet area in your yard that's prone to erosion, titi plants are perfect. Their root systems hold soil in place, and they thrive in the moist conditions that other plants hate. I've planted them along a drainage ditch on my property, and they've completely stopped the erosion problem. Plus, they look way better than a bunch of rocks.

Spring vs. Summer Titi

The Scientific Difference: Different Families, Different Traits

Why the Blooming Time Actually Matters

Real-World Challenges You'll Face When Growing Titi

Let's be honest — no plant is perfect, and titi species come with their own set of quirks. I've spent years wrestling with both spring and summer titi in my own garden, and I've learned a few hard lessons along the way. Here's what nobody tells you about keeping these plants happy.

Why Soil pH Can Make or Break Your Titi Plants

You might think any wet soil will do, but that's where most people get tripped up. Both species demand acidic soil with a pH between 5.0 and 6.5. If your soil tests above 7.0, the leaves will turn yellow, growth will stall, and you'll wonder what you did wrong. I've seen it happen to friends who planted titi in alkaline clay soil — the plants just sat there, looking miserable for years.

Here's a practical tip that saved my own plants: get a soil test kit from your local extension office before you dig a single hole. It costs about $10-15 and tells you exactly what you're working with. If your pH is too high, you can lower it by mixing in elemental sulfur or peat moss. I add about 2 pounds of sulfur per 100 square feet for every point I need to drop the pH. But don't guess — test first. I learned that lesson when I dumped sulfur on soil that was already acidic enough, and ended up with a pH of 4.0. My plants survived, but they didn't exactly thrive in that acid bath.

How to Handle Drainage Problems Without Killing Your Plants

You'd think a plant that loves wet feet would be fine in any soggy spot, right? Wrong. Both spring and summer titi need consistent moisture, but they absolutely hate standing water around their roots. If you plant them in a spot that stays flooded after rain, the roots will rot within a few weeks. I lost my first spring titi that way — planted it in a low spot that turned into a pond every time it rained.

The trick is to find the sweet spot: soil that stays damp but drains well enough that water doesn't pool. I recommend planting on a slight slope or building a raised bed if your yard has poor drainage. Mix in plenty of organic matter like compost or pine bark to improve soil structure. One trick I use is to dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and mix in 30% sand or perlite with the native soil. This creates a pocket of well-draining soil that the roots can explore. After a few years, the roots will spread beyond that pocket, but by then they're established enough to handle variable conditions.

Planting Strategies That Actually Work for Titi Species

You've probably read generic planting advice that says "dig a hole and water it." That's not enough for titi plants. These shrubs have specific needs that, if you ignore them, will leave you frustrated and your plants struggling. Let me walk you through the steps I've perfected over years of trial and error.

Step-by-Step: How to Plant Spring and Summer Titi the Right Way

First, choose the right time of year. Early spring or fall is ideal — avoid planting in the heat of summer or when the ground is frozen. I've planted in July and regretted it. The heat stress combined with transplant shock can kill a young plant in days. Cooler weather gives the roots time to establish before the plant has to deal with extreme conditions.

Here's my exact planting routine: Dig a hole that's twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Set the plant so the root flare sits just above the soil line. Backfill with native soil mixed with 50% compost or peat moss. Water deeply — I mean really soak it — until water pools around the base. Then add a 3-inch layer of organic mulch like pine bark or shredded leaves, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. Water every other day for the first two weeks, then taper off to once a week for the first year. I've followed this routine for dozens of plants, and my success rate went from about 50% to over 90%. That's a big difference when you're investing time and money in landscaping.

Why You Should Think Twice Before Planting Near Structures

You might be tempted to plant these shrubs close to your house or deck, but I'd advise against it. Both species have aggressive root systems that can damage foundations, sidewalks, and underground pipes. I've seen summer titi roots crack a concrete patio that was only 4 feet away from the planting site. The roots spread out seeking moisture, and they'll find the smallest crack in your foundation and exploit it.

Here's a rule I follow: plant titi at least 10-15 feet away from any structure, and check your local utility lines before you dig. Call 811 before you break ground — it's free and could save you from hitting a gas line or sewer pipe. I also avoid planting them near septic drain fields or irrigation systems. The roots will clog those pipes faster than you'd think. Trust me, the last thing you want is a $2,000 plumbing bill because you wanted a pretty shrub near your house.

How to Maintain and Care for Titi Plants Year-Round

Once your titi plants are established, they don't need constant attention. But there are a few things you should do every season to keep them healthy and blooming. I've developed a simple maintenance routine that takes about 30 minutes per plant per year.

Seasonal Pruning and Fertilization Schedule

Early spring is the best time for a light pruning. Remove dead, damaged, or crossing branches before new growth starts. Don't go crazy — these plants have a natural shape that looks best when you let them be. I use sharp bypass pruners and cut at a 45-degree angle just above a bud. For summer titi, I also remove any suckers that pop up from the roots, or it'll turn into a thicket.

Fertilize once in early spring with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants. I use a 10-10-10 mix with added micronutrients like iron and magnesium. Apply about 1 cup per plant, spread evenly around the drip line, and water it in well. Don't fertilize after July — that encourages late growth that won't harden off before winter and could get damaged by frost. In fall, I add a fresh layer of mulch to insulate the roots and suppress weeds. That's it — you don't need to baby these plants once they're established.

How to Deal With Pests and Diseases Naturally

You might worry about bugs eating your titi plants, but in my experience, pests are rarely a problem. I've seen occasional aphids and scale insects, but they usually don't cause serious damage. A strong spray of water from the hose knocks off most aphids. For scale, I use horticultural oil in early spring before the leaves emerge. That takes care of them without harming beneficial insects.

Fungal diseases are more common in wet conditions. Leaf spot and powdery mildew can show up if the plants are overcrowded or have poor air circulation. The fix is simple: space your plants properly and prune to open up the canopy. I've never used fungicides on my titi plants — good cultural practices handle it. If you see yellowing leaves, it's usually a nutrient deficiency caused by alkaline soil, not a disease. Check your soil pH first, and adjust as needed. Nine times out of ten, the problem is soil chemistry, not some mysterious pathogen.

Landscaping Design Ideas Using Both Species

Creating a Natural Privacy Screen

The bonus is that you get seasonal interest year-round. Spring blooms, summer blooms, fall color, and winter structure. Unlike many privacy plants that look dull in winter, titi shrubs have attractive bark and persistent fruits that add visual interest. It's like getting a privacy screen and an ornamental garden all in one. I've even used them to create a natural windbreak along a property line. The dense branching slows down wind and reduces heating costs in winter. That's a practical benefit most people don't think about.

Rain Garden and Erosion Control

Combine them with other moisture-loving natives like sweet pepperbush and winterberry for a stunning rain garden. Just make sure you're planting spring titi if you have bees nearby. It's a small consideration that makes a big difference for your local ecosystem. And honestly, once you know how to tell spring and summer titi apart, you'll never make that mistake again. I've also had success planting them along pond edges to create a natural transition zone. The roots filter runoff and help keep the water clean. It's a win-win for your garden and the environment.

Common Mistakes People Make With Titi Plants

Mistake #1: Planting in the Wrong Soil

You can also grow them in containers if your soil conditions are wrong. I've had success with both species in large pots filled with a mix of peat moss, compost, and pine bark. Just make sure the pot has drainage holes and you water consistently. Container-grown titi needs daily watering in summer, especially if you live in a hot climate. It's more work, but it beats watching a plant struggle in the wrong soil. I've kept a summer titi in a half-barrel planter for five years now, and it blooms beautifully every July. The roots get root-bound eventually, but you can repot every 2-3 years to keep it healthy.

Mistake #2: Ignoring the Bee Toxicity Issue

How to Propagate Both Species Successfully

Spring vs Summer Titi: 3 Key Differences You Must Know Photos provided by pixabay

Moisture and Sunlight Preferences

Taking Cuttings

The trick is to take cuttings from healthy, non-flowering branches. If you take cuttings from a branch that's blooming, the cutting will put its energy into flowers instead of roots. Wait until after the blooming period, then snip your cuttings. I usually take about 10-15 cuttings at a time to account for losses, and I've never been disappointed with the results. Mist the cuttings daily and keep the temperature around 70°F. Roots should appear in 4-6 weeks. Once they're well-rooted, transplant them into individual pots and let them grow for a season before putting them in the ground.

Practical Tips for Buying Titi Plants at the Nursery

You're standing in the garden center, and the tags are confusing. How do you know you're getting the right plant? I've developed a checklist that takes the guesswork out of buying spring and summer titi. Here's what to look for.

How to Spot Healthy Plants and Avoid Disease

First, check the leaves. Healthy titi leaves should be a uniform green with no yellowing, spots, or curling. Flip the leaves over and look for signs of pests like aphids or scale. I also check the soil in the pot — if it's bone dry or waterlogged, the plant has been stressed and might not transplant well. Look for a plant with a strong, central stem and plenty of branches. Avoid plants that look leggy or have multiple stems crossing each other.

Here's another thing I check: the root system. Gently slide the plant out of its pot and look at the roots. They should be white or light brown and spread throughout the soil. If the roots are circling the pot or brown and mushy, put it back. I've brought home plants with root rot before, and they never recovered. Also, check the nursery's growing conditions. If they're keeping titi plants in full sun with dry soil, those plants are already stressed. Look for nurseries that specialize in native plants — they usually have better care practices.

Comparison Table: Spring vs. Summer Titi at a Glance

Feature	Spring Titi (Cliftonia monophyla)	Summer Titi (Cyrilla racemiflora)
Mature Height	15-20 feet (4.5-6 m)	10-25 feet (3-7.5 m)
Mature Spread	8-12 feet (2.5-3.5 m)	10-20 feet (3-6 m)
Bloom Time	March to May	June to August
Flower Color	White to pinkish-white	Pure white
Fall Foliage	Scarlet red	Orange to maroon
Bee Safety	Safe for bees	Toxic to honeybees
Native Range	Southeastern US, Mexico, South America	Southeastern US, Mexico, South America
Hardiness Zones	7b to 8b	7b to 8b
Seed Germination	60-90 days cold stratification	No stratification needed
Cutting Success Rate	About 70%	About 60%

Use this table as a quick reference when you're at the nursery or planning your garden. I keep a copy in my phone for when I'm shopping. It saves me from buying the wrong plant and regretting it later.

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FAQs

Q: How can I tell spring and summer titi apart when they're not blooming?

A: When there are no flowers, you can still confidently tell spring and summer titi apart by focusing on leaves, bark, and fruit. Spring titi leaves are more oval with a leathery feel and smooth edges, while summer titi leaves are narrower with a subtle wave along the margin. Run your fingers along the edge — that wavy texture is a dead giveaway for summer titi. The bark also differs: spring titi has grayish-brown bark that becomes furrowed with age, whereas summer titi bark is smoother and more reddish-brown. Another foolproof clue is the fruit. Spring titi produces winged fruits that look exactly like buckwheat seeds — that's why it's sometimes called the buckwheat tree. Summer titi, on the other hand, makes small yellow-brown capsules that cling to the plant well into winter. If you see those capsules still hanging on in December, you've got summer titi. I use this fruit trick all the time when I'm hiking in the Southeast and want to identify wild specimens. It never fails me, even when the leaves have dropped. So next time you're at a nursery or out in nature, check the leaves first, then the bark, and finally the fruit — you'll know exactly which titi you're looking at.

Q: Why is summer titi dangerous for honeybees but spring titi is safe?

A: The difference comes down to chemistry. Summer titi nectar contains a toxin called cyrillic acid, which causes a condition known as "titi poisoning" in honeybees. I've heard heartbreaking stories from beekeepers who lost entire hives after their bees foraged on summer titi blooms — the toxin affects the bees' nervous system and can kill them within days. Spring titi, however, produces perfectly safe nectar that provides excellent early-season forage for pollinators. This is one of the most critical reasons to learn how to tell spring and summer titi apart before planting. If you keep bees or live near someone who does, you absolutely must avoid summer titi. I always tell gardeners: check the bloom time first. Spring titi flowers from March to May, while summer titi blooms from June to August. If you see white flowers in early spring, it's safe for bees. If those flowers appear in summer, keep your hives far away. The toxin is potent enough that hives within a mile of summer titi can be affected. So when you're planning your garden, make spring titi your go-to if pollinators are a priority. Your bees will thank you, and you'll still get those gorgeous white blooms.

Q: What are the biggest mistakes people make when planting spring or summer titi?

A: From what I've seen in gardening forums and at local nurseries, the top mistake is planting them in the wrong soil. Both species need acidic, consistently moist soil with a pH between 5.0 and 6.5. If your soil is alkaline or tends to dry out, these plants will look yellow and stunted — I've seen it happen countless times. The second mistake is ignoring the bee toxicity issue. People assume all titi is the same, so they plant summer titi near hives and wonder why their bees die off. That's why knowing how to tell spring and summer titi apart is absolutely essential before you dig. The third mistake is pruning at the wrong time. Spring titi should be pruned right after it blooms in late spring, while summer titi needs pruning in late winter before new growth starts. If you prune at the wrong time, you'll cut off next year's flowers. I learned that one the hard way — I pruned my spring titi in fall and didn't see a single bloom the following year. So test your soil first, check the bee safety factor, and mark your pruning calendar. These three steps will save you a lot of frustration and keep your titi plants healthy and blooming beautifully.

Q: Can I plant both spring and summer titi together in the same garden?

A: Absolutely, and I actually recommend it if you have the space. Planting both gives you a continuous display of fragrant white flowers from March all the way through August — spring titi blooms first, then summer titi picks up right as the spring flowers fade. You get nearly six months of blooms with zero overlap. But there are a few things to consider. First, make sure you can tell spring and summer titi apart so you don't accidentally plant summer titi near bee hives. Second, give them enough space — spring titi needs about 8 feet of room, while summer titi needs closer to 10-12 feet. I once planted two summer titi shrubs only 6 feet apart and had to dig one up after three years because they were fighting for space. Third, both need consistently moist, acidic soil, so choose a spot near a stream, pond, or rain garden. If you have a wet area in your yard that's prone to erosion, a mix of both species will hold the soil beautifully and provide year-round interest. Spring titi gives you scarlet fall foliage, while summer titi turns orange to maroon. The combination is stunning. Just remember the bee safety rule — keep summer titi away from hives, and you'll have a gorgeous, low-maintenance planting that supports pollinators safely.

Q: How do I propagate spring or summer titi from cuttings or seeds?

A: Both methods work, but I've had better luck with cuttings for reliable results. For seeds, spring titi needs cold stratification — put the seeds in damp sand in the fridge for 60-90 days before sowing in spring. Summer titi seeds don't need stratification; just sow them fresh in fall or early spring. I soak seeds in warm water for 24 hours before planting to soften the coat, and I see sprouts in 3-4 weeks for summer titi and 6-8 weeks for spring titi. For cuttings, take 6-inch softwood cuttings in early summer from non-flowering branches — that's crucial because if you take cuttings from blooming branches, they'll put energy into flowers instead of roots. Dip the cuttings in rooting hormone, stick them in a mix of perlite and peat moss, and keep them under a humidity dome out of direct sunlight. I get about 70% success with spring titi cuttings and about 60% with summer titi. I always take 10-15 cuttings at a time to account for losses. The key is patience: keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, and don't disturb the cuttings for at least 6-8 weeks. Once you see new growth, you'll know roots have formed. This is a great way to get more plants for free, especially once you know how to tell spring and summer titi apart so you're propagating the right species.

Samantha

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